«Corporate to Couture: The Empowering Evolution of a Woman in Fashion» (English version)

By Juliana Barreto Pinto

 Ernestine Fleming-Jones

There are many aspiring fashion designers around the world with different styles, quirks and ideas, yet not many take the leap to really expose their ideas and dreams to the world. However, the few that do, come from various places around the world and sometimes don't always start their career at a design-focused university when they are young. This is the case of Ernestine Fleming-Jones, a woman from Chicago, Illinois in the United States. In this interview she tells us about her origins and how her decisions and work throughout her life led her to start in the fashion world and to sell her first original piece after retirement. This shows us that age is not an impediment to fulfill your dreams and find your way.

Hello Ernestine, I hope you are very well. I would like to start with a general question to contextualize our readers, could you tell us a little bit about yourself? What do you do for a living?

I am a retired educator. I worked in a school as a music teacher and then was in administration for many years until I retired. I didn't plan to do that, but I'm glad I did. My retirement was right during the pandemic, so I said, “I've been around too long, better to let the young people take care of all that remote stuff.” After that, I was able to focus more on fashion which has been a very big hobby of mine for years.

Yes, I understand. I would like to know Ernestine, when did you start with your interest in fashion, when did you first become interested in it?

I have been in the fashion industry for many years. It has been my hobby/side interest as I mentioned before for many years. I started sewing since I was 14 years old, and have taken classes with many amazing people throughout my life. And so my interest in how to create my own fashion looks kept growing. I was inspired by everyone I came across and so I decided to pursue it.

«And that's how my interest in how to create my own fashion looks kept growing.»

How amazing! And since when did you decide to start creating your own designs, and why?

I would say I started using commercial patterns for a long time because I didn't know how to make my own patterns. But I learned to modify the commercial ones, and to change them. This is why I can't say it was 100% my style because I would copy something from someone and put it together to make my final designs. And I've always done that, until I started taking classes at the Art Institute of Chicago, where I was able to create my own style.

When did you start your classes at the Art Institute of Chicago?

In 2022!

Ah, that's recently! Good. And what do you prefer when it comes to designing something new (in terms of type of garments)?

In my case, I tend to do more tailored garments. It's my personal style, and I like it, but I have to do it because you don't find it in stores anymore, they don't usually have much of that. Regarding this I mean, it's not the 'hard' tailoring, it's the soft tailoring. That's the one I prefer.

I understand... and I know you make a lot of coats, so I'd like to know what is it about the coats that make you feel most comfortable when designing them?

You know, I don't know if I can answer that directly. There's something about coats that excites me. Maybe because growing up I never felt like I had a coat that I really loved. So every coat I make becomes my favorite coat (laughs). It's like something inspires me and I say, “I'm going to make that coat" ,and I just do it.

Unbelievable. And how was the first time you did your first piece of all in general?

That was a long time ago. I think I was very happy because I've been very tall for a long time. So when I was able to make a pair of pants where the length of the pants was where it needed to be, I was very excited. So yes, it was my first piece, and I made it when I was a teenager. Now, don't ask me what kind of pants, because I don't remember (laughs). And after that I realized that my pants would never be too short again in my life (laughs).

Wow, that's great. So did you make the pants or the clothes for yourself?

I used to. I don't do it anymore because I can buy clothes more easily in stores compared to before. But there was a time when yes, I did make them for myself.

And where do you get your inspiration from?

I would say from different people... from people I learn things from, from TV shows... from everywhere. There's no particular avenue that attracts me.

Understandable, yes... And what is your creative process like?

Since I've been taking classes at the Art Institute, I've been amazed at how creative I am. I don't think I was that creative before 2022 (laughs). And it's amazing how everything I'm doing is based on an inspiration rather than a necessity.

How cool, and what has been the most difficult piece you've done, and why?

The most difficult piece? hmm, I've made wedding dresses (laughs). They are difficult, so I try not to make them because they require a lot of technique. So yes, I can make them, but I choose not to. In the past I've made them for other people. My plan was to sew for people who have a hard time finding clothes according to their size. That's when I started sewing for others. I loved the reactions of those customers when they were so happy to have a garment that fit them the way they wanted.

And these dresses were your own designs?

I used commercial patterns, but modified them a bit. It wasn't that the dresses were 100% the commercial pattern.

«it's amazing how everything I'm doing is based on an inspiration rather than a need.»

Well, and I know you recently sold your first original piece. How did that make you feel?

Wonderful!... I used to sew when I was a teenager. When everyone else was out, I would stay in the room sewing because it made me happy. So this piece was a combination of different things. You know, something I saw, something I wanted... and it was a hit.

And how was the process of putting your coat on the market? Did you find it difficult to show your talent to the world?

It was scary, just because I was worried about the quality. So you know, that's why I'm always hesitant about it. When I'm doing things for myself I don't worry about it, but if I'm doing something for someone else it has to be perfect.

And to put that coat up for sale, Anna Hovet, my current teacher at the Art Institute, found that retail for me. And this is part of the story. When I started taking my first class with Anna a while back, she noticed the things I was doing and was inspired by them, so she would often say “I need you to do this and that” and I would hesitate all the time. So it wasn't until some time later when I signed up again for another class and she was the teacher, I said “okay, I'm going to take this class and she's teaching, and I know she's going to bring it up again...so I'm going to give it a try”. The store owner was very excited about what I had, and I was proud of what I had done. So a week later when she texted me saying “your coat sold” I was shocked. She told me that when the customer came into the store and saw the coat I had made, she fell in love with it and bought it. It was hard for me to take in. Even more so when the store owner said to me “do you want to bring more stuff?” my reaction was like “what?!”.

Now I feel pressured, but it's nice. I'm at a point where I'm learning who the customers are, which makes it easier for me. I've been working on different pieces lately, which is exciting.

What has been the most difficult part of your process in becoming a fashion designer?

I would say self-doubt. Also knowing what clients really want... I know what I like, but what are they looking for?, that's a question I ask myself a lot.

What is the second step in your career?

The next step is to create more things. Put more products in the store, see the result and yes! I'm ready!

Best of luck with everything! Finally, do you have any tips or words of inspiration for emerging designers?

Quality is the key. Quality and construction.

Well, a pleasure to have learned from your story and process as a fashion designer. You are an inspiration to everyone who wants to belong to the fashion world on the creative side. Thank you so much Ernestine!

Many thanks to you!

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Thanks for reading us once again Style Legion! see you next time,

Juliana, The Fashion Speaker ;)